All those who liked my photographs in these posts would be interested to know that today onward I have decided to give you videos as well. It takes time to post these on You Tube.
For the earlier two posts in the series too, videos would be available in two days.
We began our journey from Kandaghat to Kaza, two days ago on 20th June 2017. You have to access: ‘Himachal The Beautiful State Part VI – Kandaghat To Kaza – First Part Of The Journey Up To Rampur‘ to see the complete route plan and some do’s and don’ts.
After that, on the 21st June 2017, I took you to the most beautiful Sangla Valley and Chitkul, the last inhabited Indian village next to the Indo-China border. You have to access: ‘Himachal The Beautiful State Part VII – Kandaghat To Kaza – Second Part Of The Journey From Rampur to Kalpa Via Sangla And Chitkul‘.
We (my wife and I) stayed the night at Powari, just short of Kalpa (Reckong Peo) at an army camp. Of course, I was quick to add that the civilians have a number of hotels in Kalpa and Reckonfg Peo (the capital of Kinnaur District ) to stay.
The army camp where we chose to stay had accommodation alluringly close to the Sutlej river:
On the way back, we stayed the night there again and I could take some more pictures:
The officers at Powari convinced us that we needn’t stay an extra day there for visiting Reckong Peo and Kalpa as we could finish the entire itinerary there in a forenoon. So we packed up our things and left for Reckong Peo and Kalpa and en route to Pooh.
Normally, weather gods are very kind to us and so were they during our visit to both the places. We had the most beautiful view of Kinnaur hills including Kailash Kinner.
From the NH5, there is sheer climb to visit these places with a number of hair-pin bends (I had counted about 15 of them). But then it is worth reaching Kalpa at an altitude of about 3000 metres. Reckong Peo on the way is about 700 metres lower.
Look at the sights along the way:
Even though the capital of Kinnaur district, there is nothing much to see in Reckong Peo. Hence, we climbed up to Kalpa and what a view it was from there.
Earlier, Kalpa was the capital of Kinnaur. One of the officers at Powari told us that at one time, it was called Cheeni village and Indira Gandhi, the PM of India, was afraid that the Chinese may lay a claim on it. Hence, she hurriedly got the name changed to Kalpa. The Indian Army Brigade looking after this sector is called Sugar Brigade as Cheeni is not just the Hindi word for Chinese but also Hindi word for Sugar.
The best sights from Kalpa are to be seen from the Buddhist Monastery and the Hindu Temple, both co-located. Have a look at this breath-taking video first:
Of course, the video above is self-explanatory since I have given the commentary too. Have a look at the hills from the Hindu temple next to the monastery:
When I was small I used to read about blue skies. However, rarely have I experienced blue skies with the smog that exist in our cities. Here, then was this wonderful sight of blue sky contrasted against whiteness of the shining snow peaks.
A few pictures to drive home the point as to why you must go there:
And of course almost 360 degrees view around:
Before leaving Kalpa, we decided to seek some more adventure (as if yesterday was not enough) and decided to visit the Suicide Point. It is just 7 Kms from the Monastery and I recommend it for those who have stout hearts. In the video, it didn’t come out that well but there is sheer fall of 1000 metres from the suicide point (I have said 1000 feet in the commentary). You have your heart in your mouth when you have to turn around even in a small car like Maruti Alto. Watch this:
For those who are too scared to watch the video, here are some pictures:
In that kind of narrow road, when you have a vehicle coming from the other side and you are towards the valley side to make and give way, sometimes by reversing, well, you pass your driving test for the next few lives too.
Alright, ladies and gentlemen, take your hearts out of your mouths and lets be on our way to Pooh.
Distance between Kalpa to Pooh is just 75 Kms and we started in the afternoon. Google recommended time taken to cover the distance is 2 hours and 8 minutes. We took longer because we kept stopping for pictures.
As far as the risk of crossing the distance is concerned, between Km 10 to Km 25, it should take you about an hour. All kinds of traffic is on the road, the road condition ranges from being narrow to non-existent. Going to Suicide Point had prepared us for the worst but soon realised things could get even worse than that. Have a look:
Incidentally, just to remind you, these pictures are pictures of what is known as National Highway. I have taken these pictures sometimes whilst driving and at others just momentarily stopping and moving on.
Scared? Well, I too was until I saw buses and army three tonners on this road.
A little after Pangi, it becomes better and then one passes through Rarang, Akpa, Rispa, Moorang, Jangi and Spello. You have no restaurants, tea stalls, any help anywhere. You are virtually on your own.
You would of course see adventure cyclists along the way.
You would see another thing in the pictures, which is that gradually the verdure becomes non-existent and then you see bare rocky dusty hills. Giving up? Don’t. Remember what I told you: the most difficult roads lead to the most beautiful destinations. If you were taken in by the beauty of the hills at Kalpa, then you haven’t seen anything yet. There is more to come.
You would have seen a signboard about Shooting Stones. Well, these signs are a plenty along the way. They ask you to exercise caution and I, for one, couldn’t really understand what is involved in exercising caution. After we left Kalpa and before Pangi, when you have these stones falling around you, ‘exercising caution’ is translated into prayers like these: “God, please I beg you, make sure none fall on my vehicle.”
Afterwards, you get as immune to these as people who live near Niagara Falls get used to the earth-shattering sound of the Falls.
And now I must tell you about the mistake that I made just 135 Kms short of our destination: Kaza. Near Spello, since the road became slightly better and since we were getting late reaching Pooh, I started enjoying more than usual by looking around. This is a mistake that you should never make because without any warning, suddenly, the road can become from good to very bad. With a thud we went over a rock and before I could slowly apply brakes on the gravel so as not to skid. The bottom of Alto scraped against the rock.
My reactions were pretty fast. I stopped the vehicle, inspected it and found nothing amiss. We reached the army camp at Pooh safely.
Next day was a rest day (the rest day that we didn’t take at Kalpa). It is only in the afternoon the next day that I saw a small oil patch under the vehicle: the gear box was leaking.
Emergency repairs to the gear-box shell were called for. Fortunately at the army station there, they could attend to it (for the civilians there are no mechanics, workshops etc anywhere close by). Therefore, in addition to 23rd June spent there, we had to spend 24th too at Pooh whilst the repairs were going on:
Ladies and gentlemen, we are, therefore, going to take two days break at Pooh and I shall take you further 135 Kms to Kaza on 25th.
Stay tuned. The most exciting parts of the journey are yet to come.
Good morning sir. in Chinise, Chini is only temporal. India made it to last a Kalpa (4,32,0000000 years_
Thank you. Good one, Asokan