When the Indian Navy conducted the International Fleet Review in Feb 2001, at Mumbai, in which navies of various countries participated, the motto of the IFR was ‘Bridges of Friendship’. The seas are not seen as dividing media but as the media that unites people of various lands. I retired ten years later after spending 37 years of building these bridges across the seas.‘Join the Navy – See the World; Join the Navy – Meet the Girls’ was the litany when we were in the school. Robert Browning’s Cristina was fresh in our minds:
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Young ‘dreamer’ in the Navy |
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What? To fix me thus meant nothing?
But I can't tell (there's my weakness)
What her look said!---no vile cant, sure,
About need to strew the bleakness
Of some lone shore with its pearl-seed.
That the sea feels''---no strange yearning
That such souls have, most to lavish
Where there's chance of least returning.''
The last two lines have an enigma about them as well as promise of romance. One would think that it is exactly as given in the story books. However, we learnt it the hard way during our trip to Athens way back in 1975 immediately after being commissioned. We were ambling in the Constitution Square when a kind man came to us and asked if we were Indian. He said that he admired Indians and would like us to have drinks in the company of his fair-sex friends. The drinks were nice and the girls were nicer still. We talked about our great nations, our history and heritage, Taj Mahal, Delhi etc (amongst other things, that is) and really enjoyed ourselves. We were under-trainee Acting Subaltern Lieutenants on board. We were convinced that we were smarter, wittier, more interesting company; else, why would the girls be attracted to us as compared to our more senior colleagues from the ship Himgiri? In our megalomaniac trance we did not know that the man who had invited us had quietly vanished and so had our seniors. Later, we were asked to pay an exorbitant bill for the drinks, and we had to part with our entire foreign allowance and more. We were the suckers who had fallen for the obvious ploy. When we returned on board we were ‘ceremoniously’ received with all the seniors lining the gangway and going through the motions of a mock side-pipe.
Thirty-five year later, just before retiring from the navy as I stood at a banquet in Shanghai with a pretty interpreter next to me, I felt I had lost count of the number of ports and countries I had visited and bridges of friendship made with people.
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At Shanghai, just before retiring |
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At the Great Wall of China |
But, I am convinced that at the end of it one doesn’t so much remember all the pomp and glory, great places, cities and nations. Quite simply one always remembers people one meets and share their kindness and culture. One also remembers the con-tricks, swindles and hoaxes by them. Both types later become dear because good or bad, these have the flavour of foreign visits. Here are a few more.
I was merely a cadet on the cruiser Delhi when we touched the port of Sabang in Indonesia. It was about 20 kms or so from the city of Balawan. This was where we imagined the fun to be. But, the problem that confronted us was how to reach there. With our meager resources we could not have hired a cab and we were not familiar with the bus routes. As we came out of the port we spotted a ‘tempo’ driven by a sardar. We thumbed a ride. As we sat with him in the front seats he got into a conversation with us about the ship. We showed off to him how the ship was fitted with the very latest in warfare and comfort. He was particularly keen to know about the conditions in the Engine Room. We told him that our Engine Room had the latest in air-conditioned luxury and had controls and sensors to match a liner. After three quarters of an hour’s journey he dropped us at Belawan with the parting shot, “Great to know about your modern ship, Sirs; you did not recognize me, I am LME (Leading Mechanical Engineroom rating) Avtar Singh from your ship. This ‘tempo’ belongs to my brother here in Belawan. How about coming to the Engine Room sometimes and doing a watch with me?” For the next few months we avoided A Singh on board as if he were a leper.
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On duty in uniform but ‘liberty’ in civvies |
On Himgiri we had gone on a foreign visit to the Black Sea Soviet (now Ukranian) port of Odessa. In foreign ports, sailors generally go out in uniform whereas the officers may go out in civvies. But, so great was the fascination of the Soviet belles with uniform that we found that the sailors managed to make friends with the prettiest of them. As if that was not enough, to add insult to injury, on the second day of our stay whaen a reception was held on board for the local dignitaries and their ladies, one of the ladies enquired of us as to why there was no officer in the reception. It was difficult to get to the bottom of this because of language barrier. It took us sometime to unravel the mystery. Apparently, a day earlier one of the Petty Officers (the lowest rank amongst Senior Sailors) in uniform, on shore leave, when asked as to why there was a distinction between some of us going out for ‘liberty’ (shore leave) in uniform and others in civvvies had informed them that only they, the officers, with an anchor or two on their sleeves, were “permitted” to go out in uniform. The others had to be content with going out in civvies. And, one should have seen their fascination with uniform.
I still remember the time whe we landed up at Colombo. In order to shop there we had to first convert our Indian rupees into local currency. Just as it happened in Athens, a kind hearted gentleman came and asked us to put our money in individual envelopes that he had brought, write the names and amounts on the sealed envelopes and then he’d go and get the requisite local currency. He took the envelopes from us only to make a list and then handed these back to us. We held on to these whilst he went on his errand.
what a post !
i envy you Captain 😀
wish to visit as much as place i can ….
inspiring post 😀 aye aye…
“Quite simply one always remembers people one meets…”
Such a beautiful and an apt statement. A few days back I was generally whining about missing my London days to a collegue at work. The colleague, who was probably sick of hearing me whine about my London days asked me, “Tell me, do you miss London or the people you met there?” I had no hesitation in saying, “The people. It is they who gave me my memories of the place.”
Wondeful, wonderful post. Loved it.
It was wonderful reading your post..let me tell u what brought me here, the title of the post- Overboard- Overseas. Something told me” Overboard” here has a connection to Marine, and I am happy to not be disappointed.
Have been working with Shipping Industry for 4 years, surrounded by Captains and Master Mariners. Glad to stop here, coming back for more.
Looks like u are on twitter too..following u ( dont be surprised to have a follower by name @Archi_palego)
Loved reading it!
Loved reading this.
Lucky you. You really lived up to the recruitment slogan: “Join the Navy and see the World”
Looking forward to more such nostalgic reminiscences.
if could could’ve voted twice on your post at indiblogger, I’d have done it. Fine piece of writing, Sir.
Thanks Deepak. I am from the hills in Shimla. But, I dreamt of joining the Navy when I was small
Thanks. High praise indeed. I am in the upper stratosphere now; can you see me?
Thanks. This was just a miniscule part of the stories I have. Perhaps you will see more
Thanks
Thanks. As I mentioned, I love your profile pic. Shall write more on the subject
Hi, coming from someone who is so intensely professional, I really value your comments
Reading about sea faring life is an experience itself for armchair travelling like me. Your blog is very interesting to read, and I enjoyed it.
Thank you. I shall keep adding to these experiences.
loved reading such a wonderful life of a Navy officer….
It was great indeed. Lots of work but lots of fun too.
A very enthralling narrative. I really the lives of sailors. One of my office colleagues had been in merchant navy for just 3 years and he has so many interesting stories to tell. As seen from your post, you have much more stories to tell. Really enjoyed reading this.
Thank you. The seas don’t just connect people but there is a romance of the seas, tales and ditties that are so exotic, so inviting. Once you have been in a sea service, you can’t get the sea out of your veins.